I have tried hiking into the depths of the Wind River Mountains, the unofficial heart of Wyoming's Bridger Teton National Forest three times. I have failed three times. Or, not really "failed" as it isn't possible to fail when enjoying great hiking in one of the most remote backcountry areas of the Lower 48 states; rather three times I was not able to reach my objective end destinations because well, the going is tough when on foot with 50-some odd pounds strapped to your back and you have an area roughly the size of Connecticut (3.4 million acres or 5,300-square miles) at your disposal.

The fourth, fifth and sixth times I ventured into the Wind River Mountains, I saw more, carried less, slept more comfortably, ate better and even reached the spots I wanted to. I give the full credit for these trips' successes to the horses I went with. While I'll never disparage hiking and the joy of reaching a campsite knowing you carried everything you need to survive the night on your very own back, horsepack camping trips are a great way to experience the same wilderness with much less work and in much better style (no paper-thin sleeping pads here). Traveling with horses also allows junior and senior wilderness explorers (i.e. kids and grandparents) a chance to get into more remote areas than if they were under their own footpower. And the Bridger Teton National Forest is all about remote areas.

The second largest national forest outside of Alaska, the Bridger Teton National Forest (BTNF) stretches from Yellowstone National Park along the eastern border of Grand Teton National Park and the western slope of the Continental Divide to the southern end of the Wind Rivers. The tallest peak in Wyoming (Gannett Peak, 13,804 feet) as well as 40 named mountains over 12,000 feet are in the BTNF. Seven of the largest glaciers outside of Alaska are within forest boundaries. There are about 1,500 lakes – give or take a few dozen – in the BTNF and the Yellowstone, Snake and Green Rivers all have their headwaters in the forest. All of the large mammals indigenous to the area before white settlers moved in remain – bison, wolves, mountain lions, elk, moose, coyote, pronghorn and bighorn sheep, to name a few. Several endangered and threatened species live in the forest and 355 species of birds have been spotted here (including bald eagles, trumpeter swans, sandhill cranes and hawks). It is an area of superlatives.

While your horses might not appreciate, or even notice, any of these superlatives, they will free you up to. With nothing on your back and not needing to watch your own steps, you can look up at the mountains and glaciers and out at the lakes, animals and wildflower-covered meadows unencumbered. And sleep much more comfortably at night.