On the Water Canoe and kayak the state's national parks By Kurt Repanshek, Member, American Society of Journalists and Authors
Canoeing in the shadow of Grand Teton
Northwestern Wyoming, perhaps best known for its rugged and heavily treed mountains, also harbors some of the state’s best waterways for paddling. Between Yellowstone National Park and its trio of big lakes and Grand Teton National Park with its four main lakes and the Snake River, this region will satisfy those who travel with paddles in their luggage.
Option One: The Inland Sea Known as Yellowstone Lake
Yellowstone Lake, with nearly 132 square miles of water and 141 miles of shoreline, is a watery portal to backcountry adventure. Filled by the Yellowstone River and dozens of smaller tributaries, the lake is the largest in North America above 7,000 feet. Here paddlers enjoy the solitude of wilderness and the moose, elk, pelicans, bald eagles and the other wildlife that go with it.
The lake’s three arms – Flat Mountain Arm, the South Arm and the Southeastern Arm – are the primary destinations. From Grant Village, paddlers round Breeze Point and head south towards Flat Mountain Arm, which makes a good first night’s stopping point for those heading deeper into the backcountry.
From Flat Mountain Arm, the South Arm is the closest destination. Slip around Plover Point and you quickly can descend into the arm. The Southeast Arm is best reached either by putting your kayak or canoe on one of Xanterra’s power boats and letting it ferry you to the top of the arm, or by crossing over from the South Arm.
Grand Teton canoes
While most who venture onto Yellowstone Lake do so for at least several days, day trips can be launched from Sedge Bay, Bridge Bay, or Grant Village.
Option Two: Lewis and Shoshone Lake
While much smaller than Yellowstone Lake, Lewis and Shoshone lakes don’t offer any less adventure for paddlers. Lewis Lake is a great daytrip destination, small enough to circumnavigate in a day, while Shoshone Lake offers a more intimate experience with the park’s backcountry.
Navigate the 3.5-mile-long Lewis River Channel to Shoshone Lake and you’ll discover a lake reached only on foot or by paddle. Simmering along the western lakeshore is the Shoshone Geyser Basin – a fuming, sputtering and bubbling pocket of thermal activity without the crowds or boardwalks found in Yellowstone’s other thermal basins.
Since motorboats are banned from Shoshone Lake, only the determined ply the lake’s waters, and the resulting solitude is well-worth the expended sweat.
Option Three: Grand Teton National Park
While craggy peaks are the main attraction at Grand Teton National Park, its waters offer a variety of adventures set against the sky-scraping backdrop of the Tetons.
Jackson Lake is perfect for multi-day excursions that can lead to islands or hikes into rugged canyons, while the trio of Jenny, String and Leigh lakes are smaller and gentler, perfect for an afternoon’s paddle or, in the case of Leigh Lake, a quick overnight.
The Snake River offers a mix of experiences, from the 5-mile-long, calm-water paddle from Jackson Lake Dam to Pacific Creek, to the 10-mile-long, fast-water section from Deadman’s Bar down to Moose, the park’s most demanding stretch of river.
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